HIKARI
SHEARS CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Due to their unique blade design, Hikari shears must
be maintained as outlined in the Hikari shears owner's
manual. Care and maintenance is the key element in
achieving maximum performance from your Hikari shears.
Failure to perform proper care and maintenance on
a daily basis will most likely result in a damaged
shears and unsatisfactory performance.
Please take the time to carefully read the following
information and if you have any questions, please
contact us.
Maintained properly, Hikari shears will perform better
than any shears in the industry. This information
is the result of many years of research and testing.
The methods and techniques are proven, and ensure
your shears will perform "like new" for
as long as possible.
I. Correct
Tension and Adjustment
II. Oiling
and Cleaning
III.
Thumb Pressure and Technique
IV. Do's and Don'ts
V. Possible
Solutions to Common Problems
I. Correct Tension and Adjustment
Testing for correct tension should be performed daily,
especially in the first two months of use. During
this time, the washer in the pivot area will be settling
and, as it does, the tension on your shears will loosen
and need to be adjusted.
Do not use shears if tension is incorrect. As the
tension loosens on a shears, the screw loosens and
the blades begin to come apart. If you try to cut
with shears, under these conditions, they will bend
or fold the hair. The only way shears with loose tension
can cut is if the blades are pushed together by using
horizontal thumb pressure (click to scroll to this
item for explanation). In doing this, you will dull
and nick your blades quickly. For these reasons, it
is extremely important that you check the tension
daily and adjust it when necessary.
Testing for correct tension:
- Hold shears as if to execute shears over comb
technique.
- Turn hand over with thumb parallel to ceiling
(your palm facing up).
- Open blades completely, by moving thumb (up) only.
- Remove thumb and allow weight of handles to close
blades
- Looking at the length of the blades, if the blades
remain completely open, tension is correct.
- If the blades close half way, or completely, the
tension is too loose and tension adjustment procedure
must be performed.
When correct tension is achieved, finish by performing
cleaning and oiling section before using shears.
Adjusting Tension:
- Holding shears securely in a closed position,
place against edge of table (use towel to protect
table surface)
- Insert screw driver (or coin)
- Exerting firm downward pressure, turn screw counter-clock-wise,
(to the left) 1/8 turn to loosen.
- Then, turn screw clockwise, (to the right) ¼
turn to tighten.
- Test for correct tension.
NOTE 1: If shears is still too loose, repeat 4 and
5. If shears is too tight, repeat 3 and 5 only.
NOTE 2: All of the Hikari shears feature a screw design
easily adjusted with a quarter or dime.
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II. Oiling and Cleaning
"Oiling and Cleaning" is an important practice
that insures your shears perform consistently and
remain accurate (sharp) throughout its cutting life.
A two-phase process, it involves cleaning and then
lubrication of a shears's major contact points, minimizing
unnecessary wear and damage.
Why Oil and Clean Daily?
Daily oiling and cleaning will enhance the performance
and extend the cutting life of your shears. Regular
cleaning and lubrication protects against rust and
deterioration from chemical/moisture contact in the
salon environment, build-up of bacteria attracting
debris in the interior pivot and blade area, reduces
friction from blade movement, and prolongs sharpness.
Between Clients
Using a soft cloth towel, thoroughly wipe shears and
blades after every haircut. This will reduce build-up
of chemicals and debris, which may adversely affect
the performance of your shears throughout your workday.
Daily
(at the end of each workday, before leaving the salon)
With shears in closed position, add one drop of oil
to the side of the screw. This will lubricate the
screw and pivot preventing unnecessary wear in this
area.
How to oil:
Opening the shears blades, add one drop of oil to
both inner surfaces of the blades. Carefully wipe
excess from pivot to point. This lubricates all major
contact points of the blades, prevents wear, and prolongs
sharpness.
Add two or three drops of oil to the pivot area,
opening and closing the blades three to five times.
This allows the oil to draw out any debris trapped
in the pivot. Then carefully wipe blade, pivot, and
screw area of all excess oil. Oil will dry protecting
all major contact points before the following workday.
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III. Thumb Pressure and Technique:
Don't Defeat The Design:
Pushing, pulling, exerting any force or horizontal
pressure to cut only defeats the design of the shears.
Because Hikari's edge is on the inside of the blade,
these techniques will result in premature wear of
the blades, pivot area and in severe cases nicking
and structural damage.
Finger Rings
Many stylists have developed the habit of applying
horizontal thumb pressure (pushing) to the handles
of their dull shears in order to "force"
the shears to cut properly. In fact, most shears require
a certain amount of horizontal thumb pressure in order
to cut.
Hikari shears are designed to cut with no horizontal
thumb pressure. Hikari recommends using a finger ring
in the thumb opening (not the finger ring hole). This
helps the user break the habit of applying horizontal
thumb pressure, which is often unknowingly applied.
If you notice your shears dulling very quickly, you
may be pushing with your thumb without realizing it.
Check your technique and use a finger ring in the
thumb opening to help remind yourself not to apply
any horizontal pressure to the handles. In addition,
make sure the tension is adjusted properly.
What is basic technique?
"Basic Technique" refers to what is generally
accepted as correct practical application of shears
for cutting hair.
Why Practice Basic Technique?
"Basic Technique" will give you a point
of reference from which to consistently execute hair
design concepts. It allows maximum utilization of
a shears design features and cutting ability, as intended
by the particular manufacturer. It allows you to confidently
explore the utility of design features to their maximum
potential.
How Is Basic Technique Effective?
The best way to use your shears is quite simple. With
the thumb controlling the moving blade, use vertical
movement to effect the cut. This technique allows
the pressure generated from the pivot design and the
sharpness of the blades to do all of the work. It
also keeps the hands and finger relaxed and in control,
giving you more agility and radial freedom to move
throughout the haircut.
Irreparable Damage
Never never never cut any material other than hair
with your shears. This may result in irreparable damage.
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IV. Dos and Don'ts
A Check List of Helpful Reminders
Daily
Practice, and then implement the following areas into
your workday, to get maximum utilization of your shears.
Tension and Adjustment
Correct Basic Cutting Technique without Thumb Pressure
Oiling and Cleaning
Whether wet or dry, cut only clean human hair. Hair
that is coated with fixatives (hair spray, mousse,
etc.) or chemicals (perm solution, relaxer) may cause
the blades to nick or, in the case of chemicals, deteriorate
and rust the blades rendering them irreparable.
Only cut human hair. Never wigs, nylon, paper, plastic
or other materials. Even mannequin hair, labeled as
100% Human, oftentimes is treated with a coating that
can damage the blades.
Keep your shears away from clips, brushes, combs,
and other implements, which can cause accidental damage
to the blades.
Storing Your shears
When shears are not being used, (between clients and
in storage) keep blades in a closed position. This
will reduce the chance of nicking and accidental damage
to the blades.
Never use magnets to hold shears in storage. This
can magnetize the blades attracting undesirable dust
and other particles.
How you store your shears is very important. For
adequate protection and ease of travel, your investment
in a shears case is a wise decision. Leather is the
material that is most recommended. Leather breathes
and will naturally allow moisture to dissipate, reducing
the chance of rust. Only insert one shears per slot.
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V. Possible Solutions to Common Problems
Pushing/bending/folding/chasing the hair:
This is most often caused by one of two things:
Tension is too loose. If, when you check the tension,
the shears is closing halfway or more, the tension
is too loose. This means that the screw in the pivot
area is loosening and the blades will start to come
apart. When this happens, because the blades are coming
apart, the shears will "bend" the hair rather
than cut it. Most people who do not check tension
or check it incorrectly will start using their thumb
to PUSH the blades together to get them cutting again.
When they do this, they are "grinding" the
blades together and will dull them very quickly.
The shears are dull.
They could have been dulled by cutting with the tension
too loose (as described above), by applying too much
thumb pressure (Pushing), or if they're cutting hair
with product in it or dry hair (this will actually
cause a lot of small nicks that "dull" the
blade and cause "bending" and occasionally
"pinching".)
Pinching/pulling the hair
This is caused by a nick on the blade. There are several
ways that a nick can occur.
The following are helpful tips.
- Be careful you don't hit your shears on a comb
or clip
- When you set your shears down, your shears should
be completely closed.
- Cutting anything besides human hair (even wigs
labeled as being made of human hair are often treated
with chemicals - so we don't recommend using your
shears on this either) will cause damage to your
blade.
Dropping your shears
Lots of small nicks can build up if you are cutting
lots of hair that has product in it or if you are
cutting dry hair. These small nicks don't usually
cause pinching as much as they cause "crunchiness"
and "bending".
It feels "crunchy" not smooth
I can hear the shears - This is usually because the
blades have a lot of nicks on them (see above) and/or
the shears have become dull.
These are all just possibilities - each shears is
different and the way you use your shears and take
care of it will greatly affect the performance of
your shears. We have found that when shears do not
cut properly, 99% of the time it is due to improper
care and maintenance. Incorrect tension, excessive
thumb pressure and nicks due to hitting the blade
against combs and clips are areas that even long time
Hikari users fail to perform properly. If you are
experiencing problems with your shears, the best thing
to do is to send it to us to be checked and serviced.
(Click here for instructions on how to send your shears
in) You are always welcome to call our service toll
free number to speak with a knowledgeable staff member
about your problem. 1-800-255-2705.
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